
Rob
McLean
Wyoming
Rob
has been a professional trapper for more years than he cares to count. He
also markets a wide range of quality furs and other fly tying materials to fly
fishing suppliers.
Rob is an excellent fly tier with a talent for innovation. His primary specialties are small quill bodied flies tied with porcupine guard hairs.
Rob also loves to fly fish and lives in an area that provides some of the best opportunity in the USA, beautiful rugged Wyoming.
Select one of Rob's flies below.
Slick Water Rusty Spinner (Instructions)
Slick Water Caddis Larva (Instructions)
Slick Water Compra Dun (Instructions)
Damsel Nymph (Instructions)
Cut
Wing Quill Body (Instructions)
Be
sure to visit our on-line store at http://www.flytyingworld.com/angling/index.html
Tier: Rob McLean
Thread:
Yellow 8/0. Body:
PMD or Sulfur McLean's Quill Body. Tail:
Yellow or Olive Super Tail. Hackle:
Ginger. Wing:
South Fork Sulfur or PMD Dyed Turkey Flats. Legs:
Speckled Brown Indian Hen Back. Note:
This is a footprint fly in that the hackle is trimmed so that the fly rides low
on the thorax. Instructions Prepare
the wing by selecting flats of similar size and structure with opposing curves. Then lightly mist them with
tuffilm. Cut
the wing with scissors by cutting parallel with the stem
of the feather. Next cut down the feather at an angle to form the
wing. I prefer this to burning wings as I can
see where the shaft of the feather is at all times and can't when I tried to
burn them. This gives me more consistent
results. Measure
the feathers you have prepared against the hook shank. You want them a
shank long less the eye of the hook. Make
sure you trim close to the feather shaft on both sides in the area on
the hook and mount the pair of wings with the tips toward the eye of the hook. Bring
the thread to the front of the wing and erect them by building up a thread
button in front of the wing. Figure 8 between them to divide them the wing
should be cocked like a natural. Bring the thread to the rear of the hook
and build a thread button slightly down the bend of the hook. Take
2 fibers of super tail with the curves going up on the top of the hook
shank. Then pass the thread directly in front of the thread button over
the tail fibers. Vary the amount of thread tension when you do this as it
will determine how much your fibers splay. This method is hard to
master but is the quickest way to get beautiful divided tails and works well
with spade hackle also. Tie
in the quill body by the tapered end and build a nice slim even thread base to
the butt of Tie
in a hackle of the standard dry fly size. I like to do this by cross
mounting my hackle. This is done right over where I tied in my quill, with
the tip of the feather pointing right at me. Make sure your thread base
has no bumps. The
advantage to a side mount is your hackle starts straight instead of twisting and
you get no errant barbules at the beginning of wrapping. Take 3 turns
behind the wing and 2 or 3 in front, trim off and whip finish. I then
lacquer head. Trim
a notch in the bottom of the hackle so the fly sits on its thorax. Keep
the size of the wing small and angled correctly to keep the fly from spinning. Select
one of Rob's flies below. Slick
Water Rusty Spinner (Instructions)
Slick
Water Caddis Larva (Instructions)
Slick
Water Compra Dun (Instructions) Damsel
Nymph (Instructions)
Cut
Wing Quill Body (Instructions)
Return
to Rob's Introduction.
Tier: Rob McLean
Thread:
Olive 6/0 or 8/0. Body:
Olive McLean's Quill Body or McLean's Mottled Quill. Wingcase:
Tyvek colored with marker olive with brown highlights. Head/Thorax:
Golden Olive McLean's Velveteen Dry Fly Dubbing. Eyes:
Burned Monofilament. Legs:
Golden Olive Mallard Breast. Tail:
Golden Olive Marabou (half the shank length). Instructions -
Tie in thread base to back of hook and bring thread forward to two eye lengths
behind the eye of the hook. -
Mount eyes with figure
8 wraps. -
Take thread to back of the hook again and tie in marabou and quill
body. Use left over marabou to form an even nice body. -
Wrap
over marabou and quill body with thread to form a slim taper ending half way up
hook shank. -
Apply a drop of lacquer. -
Wrap the quill up to
form a body apply a drop of lacquer to the body. -
Dub a slim noodle and make
about 2 turns just ahead of the body. -
Tie in legs small clump on each
side tied up against dubbing to make them stick out. -
Tie in the tyvek wing case
leaving it long enough to pull over the head. -
Dub a slim noodle
and wrap over the wraps used to tie in the wing case. -
Lift the front of the wing
case up and take a couple of wraps forming a thorax. -
Figure
8 around the eyes to form the head and pull tyvek over and tie off. -
Whip finish
and lacquer the head. Optional:
Weave strips of flashabou along
the sides using spotted strip wrap. Select
one of Rob's flies below. Slick
Water Rusty Spinner (Instructions)
Slick
Water Caddis Larva (Instructions)
Slick
Water Compra Dun (Instructions) Damsel
Nymph (Instructions)
Cut
Wing Quill Body (Instructions)
Return
to Rob's Introduction.
Tier: Rob McLean
Thread:
Brown 6/0 or 8/0. Dorsal
Quills: Brown McLean's Quill Body (one or two quills depending on hook
size save the butts of quill left over from other tying chores to use here). Body:
Caddis Green McLean's Quill Body. Head:
Dark Brown McLean's Velveteen Dry Fly Dubbing. Legs:
Brown Speckled Hen Back. Instructions
using Spotted Strip Wrap -
Tie dorsal quills and body quill in at the
rear of
the hook. -
Build taper with thread 2/3 of the way up the shank. -
Apply a drop of
lacquer. -
Wrap the
body quill around the hook passing underneath the dorsal quill. -
The next wrap
around the hook,
the body quill passes over the dorsal quill. -
Continue to wrap under then over
until the body is
2/3 of the way up the shank. -
Form a slim dubbing noodle and dub the thorax. -
Tie
in the speckled
hen fibers. -
Barbules should be just short of the hook point. -
Apply a drop of
lacquer to finished body. -
Whip finish and cement head. Note:
The
colors I have found effective for this nymph are olive, caddis green, tan, with
brown backs and dark brown heads. Select
one of Rob's flies below. Slick
Water Rusty Spinner (Instructions)
Slick
Water Caddis Larva (Instructions)
Slick
Water Compra Dun (Instructions) Damsel
Nymph (Instructions)
Cut
Wing Quill Body (Instructions)
Return
to Rob's Introduction.
Tier: Rob McLean
Body:
PMD McLean's Quill Body Thorax:
PMD McLean's Velveteen Dry Fly Dubbing Wing:
Pale Chartruse dyed Coastal Deer Tail:
Yellow or Olive McLean's Super Tail Instructions -
Form a thread base 2/3 of the way back on the hook. -
Advance the thread 2/3 of
the way
back up the hook shank. -
Apply a drop of lacquer to the thread base. -
Take a small
pinch of deer hair
and stack tie in securely with the tips towards the eye. -
Bring thread to the
front of the wing holding
the wing upright build a tapered thread button securely against the wing. -
Bring
thread to the
rear of the hook slightly down the hook bend. -
Build up a thread button take two
fibers of super tail laying them on top of shank. -
Pass thread
directly in front of the thread button over tail fibers erecting and splaying
tail. -
Tie in quill body by the tapered end. -
Build thread taper to
the butts of the deer hair. -
Apply a drop of lacquer on thread foundation. -
Wrap
quill to form body tying off just behind butts of deer hair. -
Apply
another drop of lacquer on body. -
Dub slim noodle and cover wing junction angling
the dubbing slightly to cover any bare spots under the hook. -
Take 2 wraps behind and 2 wraps in front. -
Whip finish and cement head. Note:
This is
my favorite may fly imitation it is effective in black, PMD,
slate dun, olive, yellow, grey olive, and brown. Select
one of Rob's flies below. Slick
Water Rusty Spinner (Instructions)
Slick
Water Caddis Larva (Instructions)
Slick
Water Compra Dun (Instructions) Damsel
Nymph (Instructions)
Cut
Wing Quill Body (Instructions)
Return
to Rob's Introduction.
Tier: Rob McLean
Thread:
Brown 8/0. Body:
McLean's Rust Quill Body or McLean's Mottled Quill. Tail:
Olive Dun or Rust Super Tail. Thorax:
Rusty Spinner Velveteen Dry Fly Dubbing. Wing:
Light Dun McLean's Bar Dyed Turkey Flats. Instructions -
Wrap thread base 2/3 of the shank leaving tail mounting area bare. -
Bring thread
back up towards the eye stopping 2/3 up the hook from the bend. -
Apply a drop of
lacquer to
thread base. -
Tie in small clump of turkey flat tips pointing toward the eye. -
Divide and post turkey
into spent wings. -
Wrap thread to back of the hook slightly down the bend. -
Build
small button
of thread and take two fibers of super tail laying them on top of shank. -
Pass
thread directly
in front of the thread button over tail fibers erecting and splaying tail. -
Tie
in quill body by
the tapered end. -
Build thread taper to the butts of the turkey flats. -
Apply a
drop of lacquer on thread
foundation. -
Wrap quill to form body tying off just behind butts of turkey. -
Apply
another drop of lacquer on body. -
Dub slim noodle and cover
wing junction with figure 8 wraps. -
Whip finish and lacquer head. Select
one of Rob's flies below. Slick
Water Rusty Spinner (Instructions)
Slick
Water Caddis Larva (Instructions)
Slick
Water Compra Dun (Instructions) Damsel
Nymph (Instructions)
Cut
Wing Quill Body (Instructions)
Return
to Rob's Introduction.
Be
sure to visit our on-line store at http://www.flytyingworld.com/angling/index.html
for your tying needs.![]()
Hook:
TMC 100.![]()
Hook:
TMC 3761.![]()
Hook:
TMC #2457.![]()
Hook:
TMC 100![]()
Hook:
TMC 100.
for your tying needs.