Kirk Dietrich
Louisiana
I'm from, grew up, and still live just outside New Orleans in Southeast
Louisiana. Like most everyone, I have been fishing since I was 3 if you call cane-poling with worms fishing.
I still do it from time to time on a friend's farm pond with my kids. Its actually kind of fun.
I didn't start fly fishing until I was about 10 or 11 which would be around 1973.
I started doing it as an additional way of catching bass when they weren't eating plastic worms.
The person who started me fly fishing doesn't have a name or face but he did have a graceful loop and an old used
car. Let's see if I can keep that explanation short.
Back in '73 I was bass fishing this borrow pit pond in the woods where we (my father and two younger brothers)
were on a camping/hunting trip (a weekend ritual during the squirrel & deer season). Nothing was eating our plastic
worm offerings when a middle aged man pulled up to the pond in an old used car.
He brought his rod to the rear of the pond where I hadn't tread before because that end of the pond was always weeded up.
He stepped into the water which I hadn't even considered doing with all those weeds; hell, some deep water creature could have come
up from the depths of those weeds and grabbed a kid by the leg and he'd be gone forever.
But what this stranger did next was even more fascinating.
He started throwing this thick looking white line back and forth with great control in a rhythmic and graceful way
that was mesmerizing. I think I had heard of and maybe even seen fly fishing on the Kurt Gowdy show or something
like that because I remember knowing it was fly fishing, but I had never seen a fly fisherman in person!
This was very cool! And the thing that got my interest peaked even more was when he started catching fish.
Which was a superhuman feat on that day, at least to a 10 year old. Although we went over and spoke with the stranger, I don't
recall his name.
Sometime in the following weeks, my dad was nice enough to support my new interest and purchased a
yellowish-orange fiberglass fly rod for me. Now, twenty something years later, I rarely use spinning gear.
I often daydream about fly designs while in church and tie flies on breaks at work.
I cast wads of colored yarn at dry leaves on the front lawn from time to time and look at every body of water I pass on the highway wondering if
there are fish there and what fly I would use if I could be fishing for them.
The later of which often gets my passengers talking so as to distract me from the roadside back to the roadway.
I support my tying and flyfishing with my part-time word-of-mouth tying buisiness. With a wife and four children, the first of which was born in 1992, my free time is not very common. I do get out and chase redfish as often as I can, usually government holidays, the occasional vacation day and when I can get a kitchen pass for Sat.
I'd really like to meet that stranger of 1973 again and hear whether he is still wading in farm ponds and see if he
would be interested in chasing some redfish with me and his magical bass wand.
I want to say thanks to all the folks who have shared their fly fishing and tying experiences and knowledge with me
and continue to do so and I only hope that I can help another fly fisher in ways that I have been helped.
Select One of Kirk's Flies:
Spoon Fly (Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser Minnow (Instructions)
Cyclops (Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Be sure to visit our on-line store at http://www.flytyingworld.com/angling/index.html
Tier: Kirk Dietrich
Mustad 34007 or equiv., #4 – #3/0
Note: Scroll down for Instructions
Cyclops
were developed in the winter of 1999 as a solution to a more durable Clouser
Minnow. Capt. Mark Brockhoeft of Big Red Guides mentioned to me that he
wished his “go to” winter fly, would last for more than a couple dozen fish.
Even when superglued, the barbell eyes would start to twist and take the wing
around the hook shank with it. Before you say a couple dozen fish is plenty on
one fly, you’ve got to realize its common for Capt Mark’s clients to catch 50,
75, and sometimes 150 redfish during the winter.
I tried beads used for bead
headed nymphs, lead split shot but wasn’t ever satisfied. It was then I
found some split beads that a friend of mine Ted Cabali had given me years
prior. He is forever tinkering with different materials (a master at it)
and is always eager to share his discoveries with me. I didn’t use them at
the time and stashed them for future creative inspiration.
I knew these split beads were
the answer but I needed more. A frustrating search finally led to a source
so ordered a few bags and began experimenting.
By putting the maximum amount
of lead around the hook shank to fill the hollow bead, the fly would get to the
winter fish in the shallow lakes and bays very quickly. When the lead was
left out, they were light enough to use in the deeper ponds on the early spring
fish but heavy enough to get under their nose when they remain hunkered down on
the bottom.
With the application of Zap-a-Gap to the
underside of the fly, Capt Mark reported that the flies were lasting for 75 fish
before being lost to the bottom. Finally, the fly stayed on the end of a
client’s line for two consecutive 75 fish trips before he took it off and gave
it to the man as a souvenir of a great couple of winter redfish trips. Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
INSTRUCTONS
1. Cut a piece of lead wire up to 1 ¼” long, shorter if you
want less weight but no more because the Optic Eye won’t fit over the finished
ball. For a shallow water version, omit the lead and go to step 2. Wrap lead on
hook shank by wrapping onto itself like a cinnamon roll.
2. Select appropriate size
Optic Eye. If it doesn’t fit over the lead, open the eye up a bit by putting a
hemostat or needle nosed pliers into the opening and then spreading the jaws to
open the Optic Eye. Put the eye over the lead and squeeze closed with the
pliers.
3. Start thread behind eye and wrap thread back about a
third of the way into the hook bend.
4. Select a small bunch of
kinky fibre the size of pencil lead (usually the bunch is twice as long or
longer than what I need so, I double it over and cut in half). Tie in the bunch
until secure. Trim butts at a taper.
5. Wrap thread forward
covering the butts and forming a smooth underbody.
6. Tie in some flash
material and take the thread back to the tail tie in point. Trim the flash
staggering the cuts.
7. Tie in the Estaz and
vernille and take the thread back to the head.
8) Cut a length of mono for
your weedguard. I should be long enough that when attached near the hook eye and
made into a loop, the loop is about 1 ½ times longer than the hook gape. Prepare
the weedguard by folding it over and aligning the tips. Smash the tips
simultaneously in your tying vise or with a hemostat. The flattened tips should
be about the length of the hook eye.
9. Behind the split bead,
tie down the flattened ends of the mono weedguard with several wraps. While the
feet are still visible, put a drop of Zap-a-Gap on them. Wrap over the ends and
take thread to the back of the bead.
10. Wrap vernille forward in
an open but close spiral. Tie off vernille with, two or three wraps, on the hook
point side of the weed guard.
11. Wrap estaz forward in an open but close spiral. Tie off
estaz in-between the weedguard and bead head. Whip finish.
12. Cut the loop off the
weedguard at a point that when you bend the weedguard down it extends rearward
just past the hook point.
13. Trim the estaz body flat on the side opposite the
hookpoint. Apply a bead of Zap-a-Gap on top of the trimmed side of the body for
the length of the hookshank. You can also put some Zap onto the thread wraps and
into the split bead.
14. The finished fly with Zap-a-gap has led to 75+ fish
per fly.
Below are three Cyclop variations.
Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction. Tier:
Kirk Dietrich
Also, if I find a concentration of bluegill that are taking surface flies and they become wary after I catch a few, changing to the Squirrelly
always produces more fish. Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
Tier: Kirk Dietrich
Note:
Scroll Down For Information and Instructions. Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction. FISHING
NOTES Use
a non-slip mono loop to connect the fly to your tippet. Try
to prevent "dinging" the fly on hard surfaces like the boat,
rocks, trees, etc. A good ding will pop the epoxy overcoat off and
make it more vulnerable to softening by exposing the mylar. Retire it
and re-coat it later. If you don’t ding it and just catch fish, this
fly will take a couple to several dozen fish before needing a re-coating
after which it should take another couple dozen. So, check your tippet
for fraying and wind knots and you won’t have to tie many of these except
of course to give away to your envious fishing partners. As
with most flies, vary the retrieve until you find out what works.
Generally, I start with a smooth med./fast 18 – 24" strip.
Sometimes a shorter quicker strip is good. The combinations are to
many to list here, just experiment. I’ll tell you from experience,
if you get a couple of takes when you are pulling the fly from the water to
make a new cast, start stripping hard and fast. If
the fly skips on the surface when stripping, pause a second to allow it to
grab the water. If that doesn’t work, you may have an air pocket in
the body that wasn’t pushed out during the tying. TYING
INSTRUCTIONS Material
Prep: At
a point approximately one hook eye length back from the hook eye, bend the
hook eye/shank away from the hook gape approx. 15 – 20 degrees. You’re
making a bend back hook. Prepare
some mono weed guards from a "hard mono" which is approx. the dia.
of your hook. Generally, .019 - .022 works on hooks from #2 to #2/0.
Cut the weed guard so that the piece measures from the hook shank above the
hook point, down one half hook gape below the point and up past the hook eye
approx. ½". Pull
the core from the mylar tubing. Cut pieces that measure slightly
longer than the hook. You want the mylar to stick out over the hook
eye and follow the hook down into the bend to the point. After you get
this one piece measured, cut the rest from this piece.
Tying
Steps: Start
thread just behind hook eye and advance to the point where the bend was
placed in the hook shank. Select a piece of lead several inches long
and tie in here. Finish tying lead down with 8 – 10 wraps while
advancing thread towards the rear. Wrap
the lead four times around the tied down piece and break off. Overwrap
the lead with thread and advance thread to a point on the hook just above
the barb. Tie in weed guard at the end of shank above the barb.
Finish tying down the weed guard until the thread reaches the midpoint of
the hook bend. Secure with a half hitch. Holding
the thread taught, slide a piece of mylar over the hook shank and down over
the thread allowing mylar to fray over the taught thread. Make two
loose thread wraps around mylar. Squeeze
mylar flat between your thumb and index finger. Pull thread wraps
tight by easing up on your finger pressure. However, be sure to hold
the mylar tight enough that it cinches down evenly. Secure
with 8 – 10 thread wraps, whip finish and cut off thread. Trim
excess mylar protruding from thread wraps. These frayed ends around
the hook bend are a detriment to the fly’s action. Pull mylar back
towards hook bend to expand the diameter (not so much that it rolls back
over itself) and trim the front end of mylar even with the front edge of the
hook eye. Invert
hook so that the mylar opening is facing upwards. Mix a dime sized
amount of 5-minute epoxy and apply to the inside rear and middle of the
mylar tube. Turn
hook back over in vise into the standard position. Pull approx. 8 –
10 inches of thread past the bobbin tube and make 3 wraps around your index
finger (this is done to keep the thread taught while you start the
thread). With your thumb and middle finger of the same hand, pull the
mylar back to expose the hook shank in back of the hook eye. Start
thread at hook eye and advance to the lead wraps. While still holding the
mylar back, place a half hitch at this point to secure the started thread. Hold
the thread taught and push the tubing forward over the thread and make two
loose wraps around the mylar, as was done to secure the rear. NOTE:
Dip and rub your fingers together in a cup of alcohol as necessary to prevent
your fingers from becoming to sticky. This is a messy job so you will
get some glue on your fingers and tools but the alcohol lessens it. This
is the reason I use old tools for this fly. I have one bobbin and
scissors that is used for spoonflies only. Squeeze
mylar beneath the loose thread wraps flat between your thumb and index
finger. Cinch down the mylar tightly as was done at the rear.
Make 3 or 4 turns to secure the mylar. With
a pair of old scissors or mini wire cutters, trim the ends of mylar behind
the hook eye. Finish wrapping down the trimmed ends of mylar and whip
finish. Turn
the hook back over in the vise and flatten the mylar between your thumb and
index fingers of each hand creating a depression/spoon shape in the rear and
pushing any air bubbles out. When flattening, make sure the epoxy on
the inside gets spread around to cover the entire inside of the mylar
tube. After the fly is shaped and set, about 5 minutes, put it aside
to cure. If
desired, tint the mylar with permanent markers before tying off the weed
guard. Start thread at the hook eye to prepare the tying off of the
weed guard. Stick end of weed guard through the hook eye and secure
with three wraps of thread. Adjust weed guard length so that the
mono passes one half the gook gape below the hook point. When
adjustment is correct, tie down tightly. Pull
tag end of weed guard towards back of fly and tie down tightly. Whip
finish thread and trim tag end of weed guard leaving a little piece
protruding from beneath the thread wraps. Using
2-ton epoxy and plastic brushes, coat the back and belly of spoon fly.
Set aside to cure. After epoxy dries (8 – 12 hrs.), coat back
(opposite hook gape) of spoon with a second coat of 2-ton. Be sure to
coat the edges of mylar as this is the part of the fly that wears first. Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction. Tier:
Kirk Dietrich
Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Tier: Kirk Dietrich
Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
Tier: Kirk Dietrich
Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
Tier: Kirk Dietrich Note:
Scroll Down For Instructions. Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
Instructions 2. Take thread to hook bend and tie in a clump
of lamb's wool as long or short as you like and flash material. 3. Form a dubbing loop with the heavy thread and load it with half inch lengths of
lamb's wool and pieces of lite brite. Spin the loop very tightly. 4. Wrap the wool/lite brite "rope" around the hook
shank keeping tension in the rope. Criss-cross dubbing over the eyes and tie off in front of the dumbbell eyes. 5. Start
your 3/0 thread and tie in a sparse bunch of kinky fiber then tie in a sparse bunch of darker bucktail and top with
holographic tinsel or flash of your choice. 6. Coat head thread wraps with head cement and paint or stick on eyes if
desired. I pre-paint my dumbbells. Select One of Kirk's
Flies: Spoon Fly
( Instructions)
The Rubber Legged Bunny Bugger
Wool Clouser
Minnow ( Instructions)
Cyclops
( Instructions)
Check out Kirk's Epoxy Fly Drying Stand.
Easy to build and easy to use.
Return
to Kirk's Introduction.
Be sure to visit our on-line store at http://www.flytyingworld.com/angling/index.html 
for your tying needs.
Material
List
“Plus” type thread, or equiv.
1/8” wide lead wire
Optic Eye
Kinky or Slinky Fibre
Flash material
Vernille or Chenille
Estaz, A.k.a. Cactus Chenille
Hard Mason
Hook:
Mustad 3906B #10.
Thread: Black 3/0.
Eyes: Gold bead chain.
Wing: Frey squirrel tail hair.
Notes: When I used to think of Perch, an image of a Sponge Spider
or Rubber Legged Popper would come to mind. Now, I think of Bluegill and my Squirrelly comes to mind.
I still fish with Spiders, Poppers, and Divers but only in the calm of early morning and late evening unless, of
course, the fish are feeding on top during the day. Sometimes when the bluegill are hitting surface flies but aren't very
aggressive, a sub-surface pattern like the Squirrelly will provide hook-ups.
Again, if I catch a bunch of fish on surface flies along a particular shoreline in the early morning, when they stop hitting I work back over the
same area with the Squirrelly to keep the rod bent.
The Retrieve I use most often is a slow, short hop along the bottom. If that doesn't
work I try a quicker twitching retrieve at different depths.
I've caught countless numbers of bluegill on this fly when nothing else was working and,
also when other flies were working, the Squirrelly always managed to entice larger Fish.
In addition to bluegill, I've taken crappie, catfish, garfish, school bass and two, three pound bass on the Squirrelly.
I don't know what this fly imitate; maybe the fish think it is a small baitfish, crawfish, or nymph.
Who knows, maybe it resembles a variety of fish food depending on what retrieve is used.
Whatever it is, they sure like it, especially biiiggg bluegill.
The Squirrelly is a sub-surface pattern something like a Crazie Charlie, only much simpler.
It is tied inverted with bead chain eyes, no body or flash, and a wing that is cut off just past the hook bend. 
Hook:
Mustad 34007 #4 or larger.
Thread: Heavy tying thread.
Weight: .015 lead for size 1 and larger and .010 for smaller hooks.
Weed Guard: "Hard mono" approximately the diameter of hook.
Body: Large size mylar for size 4 and X-Large for
larger sizes.
Adhesive: 5 Minute Devcon epoxy.
Overcoat: 2-Ton Devcon epoxy.
Misc.: Pliars, hobby wire cutters, plastic brushes, craft sticks, paper
plates, permanent markers, cup of alcohol, rag, and a holder for curing epoxy.
Hook:
Mustad 34011 #1.
Thread: "Plus" type tying thread or 3/0 Monocord.
Weed Guard: Mard Mason mono (diameter of hook).
Tail: Two marabou plumes with crystal flash or Flashabou.
Body: Medium chenille overwrapped with two dyed grizzly
hackles.
Other: Zap-A-Gap, Hard As Nails with clear nylon nail polish and
masking tape.
Hook:
Mustad 34011.
Thread: "Plus" type tying thread.
Weed Guard: Hard mason (diameter of hook).
Tail: Zonker strip.
Body: Zonker strip.
Legs: Rubber legs.
Other: Zap-A-Gap, Hard As Nails with clear nylon nail polish and
masking tape.
Note: You have to "swish" this and all rabbit flies around in the water to soak them
before they can be fished properly. This fly is a tantalizing killer.
Hook:
Mustad 34011 #1.
Thread: "Plus" type tyong thread.
Body: Mylar tubing (extra large size) with a BB and
rattle.
Tail: Teased out mylar tubing body.
Wing: Bucktail and crystal flash.
Other: Devcon "2 Ton" epoxy and acrylic paint.
Notes: This Rattle Rouser streamer is a good searching pattern because
it has auditory appeal in addition to visual appeal. It has a rattle cylinder
incorporated into their design that sends out a tantalizing clicking sound.
Some predatory fish have better visual capabilities than others but all fish rely on their "lateral line" nerve to help them find food.
Their lateral line sensor picks up vibrations sent through the water by noise.
An abrupt or unnatural noise will spook fish but the subtle click, pop, or flutter of unsuspecting and wounded prey will attract the attention of
a curious or hungry predator, especially in murky water, where fish rely on hearing to locate food.
This streamer is an excellent pattern for game fish that feed on minnows. From Florida to Texas, the R.R.'s have caught bass, catfish, stripped
bass, redfish, speckled trout, flounder, king mackerel, and snook. Also in Montana, a friend of mine took some nice 22" brown trout with a
gold/olive R.R. 
Hook:
Mustad 34007 #4-#8.
Thread: White 3/0.
Tail: Lamb's wool & Krystal Flash.
Body: Dubbed lamb's wool & lite brite (use dubbing
loop).
Wing: Kinky fiber under bucktail with holographic flash.
Eyes: dumbbell.
1. Tie in dumbbell eyes about 1 1/2 hook eye lengths back from the
hook eye using figure 8 wraps.
for your tying needs.