Kerry Pitt
(aka: inconnu) - British Columbia, Canada
I began tying at age 12 when my dad bought me a
fly tying kit. He probably had visions of me tying flies for him but it was soon destroyed when he saw my imitations.
" And what
would this be?" He would say, dubiously fingering my nightmarish creations.
Dad never taught me to fly fish but showed me everything else he knew about other fishing
methods. But when I watched him fly fish I saw a person that I didn't really know.
He would
cast to rising fish with a deftness I still envy. His whole being was changed, as if nothing
else mattered and no cares were on his shoulders. That is one of the things that attracted
me to fly fishing. Another was my desire to read anything that had pages, so my parents,
being wiser than I ever gave them credit for, gave me a Roderick Haig-Brown book to
read, "Fisherman's Spring." I was "hooked" so to speak and never looked back.
I currently live in Fort St John, B.C. and fish whenever I can for everything from trout to pike and walleye. I wrote a fishing column for the Alaska Highway News for 4 1/2 years. I teach tying at the local cultural center and spend allot of time looking for new materials to tie with. I think if they banned fishing tomorrow I would still tie. I enjoy the art form immensely.
Select One of Kerry's Flies:
Gold Ribbed Suede Pheasant (Instructions)
Mylar Winged Spinner (Instructions)
Beaded Chironomid (Instructions)
Be sure to visit our on-line store at http://www.flytyingworld.com/angling/index.html
Tier: Kerry
Pitt
1. Wrap your thread from just behind eye of hook to the hook bend on a 9523 or 2/3 of the way to the bend on a 3399. Select One of Kerry's Flies: Gold Ribbed Suede Pheasant
(Instructions)
Mylar Winged Spinner
(Instructions)
Beaded Chironomid
(Instructions)
Return to Kerry's
Introduction.
Tier: Kerry
Pitt
Anyway using the K.I.S.S. principle I came up with the Suede Pheasant. Then I thought it would look better with a
gold rib so I did that too. The Brook trout up here fall for it all of the time, but no Rainbows on it yet.
Hey, I'll suffer through catching 3 to 5lb Brookies if I have to. 1. Wrap thread from 1/8 back from eye to bend in hook shank 2. Tie in pheasant tail so that it extends about the length of the straight shank past the bend. Do not trim the butts too short, they should be cut
off about 1/4 back from hook eye, so they form an underbody of sorts, it helps make the suede wrap better. 3. Tie in tinsel at hook bend 4. Tie in a thin slice of suede, about 3 to 4 inches long, about 3/16" wide at one end, tapering to a point at the other end. The point can be
created by tapering the last inch of the suede strip. Tie in by the pointed end. 5. Wrap the suede
forward, stretching and overlapping a little as you wrap. Tie it off at about the same spot you trimmed the pheasant tail
butts. The trick here is to leave enough room so the head isn't too bulky after you tie in the rest of the pheasant and peacock. 6. After you tie off the suede, trim it and tie the end down so the front end of the body is tapered, it should be cigar shaped. Add a drop of head
cement for safety. 7. Wrap tinsel
forward, following the overlaps in the suede, tie it off at the same spot. 8. Take a bunch of pheasant tail fibers and tie them as a beard underneath, just
in front of the body. I tie them in sort of up on the side, with a
couple of wraps. Trim the butts and then rotate them evenly underneath. Add a few more wraps, then tie in the wing, which should extend to, or
almost to, the end of the tail. 9. At this point use a few more wraps to form the shape of the head. 10. Bring your thread back to where the wing meets the head, then tie in 2 or 3 strands of peacock
herl. 11. let your bobbin hang down and bring your herl around in the first wrap, when it comes around to the thread hanging below the hook, wrap
your herl around the thread 4 or 5 times to form a rope. Wrap that around the head, towards the eye (about 4 wraps) then tie it off. Trim
remainder, finish up with a whip finish and cement. I fish this on a full sinking line in Brookie infested lakes. Good fishing! Select One of Kerry's Flies: Gold Ribbed Suede Pheasant
(Instructions)
Mylar Winged Spinner
(Instructions)
Beaded Chironomid
(Instructions)
Return to Kerry's
Introduction.
Tier: Kerry
Pitt
My fishing partner shares my urge to try new materials, so when
he found some glittery looking ribbon, like the true packrat he is, he brought some home.
We used this woven ribbon for wings on a spinner pattern and it works great! We have fished this
fly against a lot of others and the it always out fishes them, even in a Caddis
hatch. Mind you the fish up here are of the uneducated type, mostly drop outs and runaways, but hey I don't complain.
1. Wrap thread from just behind eye to the bend in the shank.
Dub in a small ball of rat at that point. Select One of Kerry's Flies: Gold Ribbed Suede Pheasant
(Instructions)
Mylar Winged Spinner
(Instructions)
Beaded Chironomid
(Instructions)
Return to Kerry's
Introduction.
Be sure to visit our on-line store at http://www.flytyingworld.com/angling/index.html
for your tying needs.
Hook: Mustads #16 9523 or #14 3399.
Body: Glass Beads, strung on monofilament.
Wingcase: Pheasant tail.
Gills: Black and white ostrich.
Thorax: Peacock herl.
I like all those tiny little glass beads you find in hobby stores so I
tried this. Of course after half a dozen of these you can't see anymore, but what is a little eyesight in the name of
fishing?
Directions:
2. Use small glass beads and thread one end of a piece of sewing mono (6"long). Then use an improved clinch knot with a drop of head cement
to secure it in place.
3. Thread on the right amount of beads to attain the body length you desire, the beads I use are maybe 1/16" diameter and I use 4 to 6 of them,
since some of our midges up here compete with Ravens for airspace.
4. Use 2 or 3 wraps of thread to tie the string of beads into place. You can leave it long in this step, then just pull them
forward when the mono is secured. Pull the mono up until the beads are forming a slightly curved body, then double the extra mono back on itself and wrap a couple
more wraps of thread to secure it, then a shot of head cement.
5. Tie in your peacock herl, tight against where the beads end and take 2 or 3 wraps forward with it, then tie off and trim.
6. Tie in your pheasant for the wing case. You don't need much on a 9523 hook and you may not need the peacock.
7. Tie in Black ostrich and give it 2 or 3 wraps, tie off and trim. Then tie in white ostrich, wrap 2 or 3 wraps tie off and trim.
8. Pull pheasant forward and over, to form wingcase (a little tricky on the 9523).
Tie off, trim, form head, and cement.
Hook: Mustad 9671 #8.
Thread: 6/0 black, prewaxed.
Tail: Pheasant tail.
Rib: Gold oval tinsel.
Body: Brown suede.
Wing: Pheasant tail.
Hackle: Pheasant tail.
I created this fly when I was playing with suede as a tying material
(I know Jim Teeny used it as well). I wanted something that was easy to tie and effective, the perfect fly?
Directions:
Hook: Dryfly
of choice.
Thread: Black 6/0, prewaxed.
Tail: Moose mane, or your choice.
Hackle: Grizzly, or your choice.
Body: Muskrat, dubbed without guard hairs.
Wing: Mylar ribbon, cut to shape.
Directions:
2. Tie in your three tail fibers over the ball of dubbing, using it to separate them, a couple more wraps then trim the butts.
3. Cut a piece of ribbon twice as long as you need to make a wing, then fold it in half by putting the two ends together (not lengthwise).
Then cut a wing shape by cutting in from the edge at the folded "hinge" and cutting a half circle towards the top corner of the same side you are
cutting from. This way you get one piece shaped like two wings and you get two of these from one folded piece.
Tie in your wing at the 1/4 back from the eye point using diagonal wraps. Add a drop of head cement.
4. wrap back to the tail, then dub the abdomen to a spot just short of the wing.
5. Tie in your hackle feather.
6. Dub forward, with two diagonal wraps of thin dubbing over the wing and then a little in front of the wing.
7. Wrap your hackle forward. I crowd a few wraps up tight to the trailing edge of the wing then bring it around and up
in front of the wing, give it 2 or 3 more wraps then tie it off and trim.
8. Form the head and whip finish, cement. I trim the hackle flat on the bottom so it gives the fly a better appearance on the water.
for your tying needs.